A 19th-century lumber baron’s summer mansion, a resident ghost, and some of the funkiest barrel-aged beer in Michigan all share one roof on Old Mission Peninsula, and somehow it works beautifully. Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant & Brewery took over the old Bowers Harbor Inn building in 2009, and locals will tell you it’s one of the more atmospheric places to grab dinner and a pint anywhere near Traverse City.
The draw here is twofold: a genuinely striking historic building overlooking Bowers Harbor, and a beer program built entirely around sour, barrel-aged ales that you won’t find at your average brewery. Add wood-fired pizzas and a menu full of shareable plates, and you’ve got a spot that pulls in wine-country tourists, boaters, and Old Mission regulars alike.
What to Eat and Drink
Every beer poured under the Jolly Pumpkin name is barrel-aged and intentionally sour, which is a rarity even in a craft beer scene as crowded as Michigan’s. The brewery built its reputation on this style long before “wild ale” became a buzzword elsewhere, and the tasting flights are the easiest way to figure out which funky, tart profile suits you best.
The wood-fired pizzas are consistently the food highlight, with crisp, blistered crusts that hold up well against the tangy beers. The whitefish appetizer, a nod to the restaurant’s Great Lakes setting, shows up again and again as a favorite starter, alongside the truffled french fries and the nacho platters, which come in both classic and sweet potato versions.
Beyond the house-brewed sours, the taps also pour beers from sister brands North Peak Brewing Company and Old Mission Beer Company, so there’s a lighter, more approachable option on hand for anyone not ready to commit to a barrel-aged funk bomb. It’s a smart way to keep the menu accessible without watering down what makes Jolly Pumpkin distinct.
Atmosphere & Décor
The building itself does a lot of the heavy lifting. Constructed in the 1880s as the summer estate of Chicago lumber baron J.W. Stickney and his wife Genevieve, the mansion later became the Bowers Harbor Inn before Jolly Pumpkin moved in. Exposed wood beams, a substantial fireplace, and creaky, character-filled rooms give the space a lived-in, up-north tavern feel rather than a polished modern brewpub vibe.
Ask around and you’ll hear the place has a reputation for being haunted, with stories tracing back to Genevieve Stickney herself. Whether or not you believe it, the lore adds a fun layer to a meal here, and staff and longtime patrons seem to enjoy leaning into it rather than downplaying it.
Outside, the peninsula setting means views toward Bowers Harbor and Power Island, and the surrounding vineyard-dotted drive makes the trip out from downtown Traverse City feel like part of the experience rather than a detour.
Other Considerations
Is it kid-friendly? Yes, it’s a full-service restaurant rather than a bar-only space, so families are welcome, though the main draw for adults is clearly the beer list.
Will I need a reservation? It’s worth considering, especially on weekends and during peak summer and fall color-tour season, when the dining room and patio fill up quickly and waits can stretch long.
Is it easy to find? It sits about halfway up Old Mission Peninsula, a scenic drive north from downtown Traverse City that passes wineries and orchards, so give yourself a little extra time to get there, especially if you plan to make stops along the way.
What if I don’t like sour beer? You’re still covered. Between the North Peak and Old Mission Beer Company selections on tap, there are more traditional styles available alongside the signature barrel-aged sours.
Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant & Brewery
📍 13512 Peninsula Dr, Traverse City, MI 49686
Website: https://traversecity.jollypumpkin.com/
