A waterfall taller than Niagara Falls — flowing chocolate-brown through the middle of the Arizona desert — sounds like something out of a fever dream. But Grand Falls, nicknamed “Chocolate Falls,” was very much real, and for those lucky enough to have witnessed it in full flow, it was an experience that permanently rewired their sense of what the desert is capable of. Grand Falls is a natural waterfall system located about 30 miles northeast of Flagstaff, Arizona, in the Painted Desert on the Navajo Nation.
⚠️ Important Notice: On March 1, 2023, the Navajo Nation Tourism Department announced that Grand Falls is closed until further notice. Reasons cited were the negative environmental impacts of the site’s recent popularity, including litter, traffic, and off-road travel. For status updates on closures, visit discovernavajo.com. Out of respect for the Navajo Nation, please verify current access conditions before making any travel plans.
What Made Grand Falls So Special
Grand Falls stands over 181 feet tall and is known for the beautiful rainbows created by the impact and spray of the falls. For scale, Niagara Falls is 176 feet, and the actual waterfall drop is only 70 feet due to rocks at the base — so yes, Grand Falls is taller than Niagara Falls. That statistic alone was enough to make this a legitimate bucket-list destination for waterfall enthusiasts across the country.
Grand Falls was created when lava from nearby Merriam Crater flowed into the Little Colorado River, creating a natural dam. Over time, the Little Colorado River wound its way from the White Mountains in eastern Arizona through the rugged, dusty terrain of the high Arizona desert, picking up loose dirt particles en route to the falls. The water takes on a thick, chocolaty appearance before heading downstream to the Grand Canyon, where it flows into the Colorado River.
What made this 181-foot waterfall so visually striking was its width combined with the multiple terrace-like drops before plunging in at least two taller leaps. In addition to the waterfall’s dimensions, the surrounding scenery appeared to be a microcosm of the mighty Grand Canyon itself, as visitors were literally looking into a mini-gorge with intriguing Grand Canyon-like cliffs. The whole scene was nothing short of cinematic.
The Chocolate Color — And the Best Time to See It
The most reliable time to see Grand Falls in full flow was during spring, when snowmelt from the White Mountains fed the Little Colorado River. Mid-March through April typically offered the most consistent water flow — when the falls were at their most impressive, with multiple tiers of cascading chocolate-colored water.
While March and April were the best times to see Grand Falls in action, the seasonal summer monsoon could also provide a spectacular sight, as the water flowing over the terraces looked even more like Chocolate Falls due to the normally dry river sending dirty water downstream. The muddy waters were reminiscent of scenes straight out of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, especially in the late afternoon when the setting sun intensified the brown color.
The falls were dormant for months of the year and reduced to only a drip during the off-season — which is why many savvy visitors would check USGS flow data before making the journey. Before making the trip, checking the USGS water flow data for the Little Colorado River and looking for readings of at least 300 cubic feet per second at the Winslow or Cameron monitoring stations was recommended to ensure a good viewing experience.
Rainbows, Wildlife, and Stars
On sunny days, the mist from Grand Falls often created rainbows, adding another stunning element of beauty to the scene. Mid-morning to early afternoon typically offered the best conditions for rainbow formation. For photographers, this was pure gold — a chocolate-brown curtain of water, framing a desert canyon, crowned with a rainbow.
The Grand Falls area offered several opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to connect with nature, as the Little Colorado River corridor attracted various wildlife species. Early morning or late afternoon visits offered the best chances to spot desert wildlife, including coyotes, jackrabbits, various bird species, and occasionally deer. Wild horses would sometimes come right up to your vehicle along the road, making the drive itself an adventure worth remembering.
The remote location of Grand Falls, far from city lights, also created perfect conditions for stargazing. Those camping overnight were treated to spectacular views of the Milky Way and constellations, weather permitting.
The Landscape & Setting
Wide sweeping views, antelope jumping across the road ahead, and a very bumpy nine-mile road led to one of Arizona’s hidden treasures. The landscape approaching the falls was itself a dramatic, wide-open stretch of high desert — sparse, sun-bleached, and hauntingly beautiful. There were no commercial trappings, no gift shops, no ticket booths. Just raw, unfiltered Arizona wilderness.
A combination of lookout gazebos and picnic shelters sat near the upper parking area for Grand Falls. Attractive profile views where the falls could be seen together with the outflow of the Little Colorado River could be had from the second or third clifftop lookout gazebo. It was a perfectly raw, elemental setting — the kind of place that puts you squarely in your place against the scale of nature.
Grand Falls was located on Navajo Nation land, offering visitors an opportunity to learn about and respect the rich cultural heritage of the area. While visiting Grand Falls, you were on sacred land that has been home to the Diné (Navajo) people for centuries, and the Little Colorado River and surrounding landscape hold deep cultural significance.
Other Considerations
Was there an admission fee? It was open to visit without fees or really any rules — just up to people to use common sense and respect. Unfortunately, that trust was abused, which ultimately led to the closure. Should it ever reopen, expect that some kind of fee or ranger system may be introduced.
How rough was the road getting there? Getting there could be very rough without a Jeep or 4×4. Visitors in small cars reported their vehicles shaking throughout the entire dirt and gravel road, and while a standard car could technically make the trip, it was highly not recommended. A high-clearance SUV or truck was always the smarter choice.
Was it safe to hike down to the base? Some people chose to hike down to the water, but the ground got very mucky at the base of the falls — wearing shoes that could withstand the sticky mud was helpful. Hikers had to be careful though, as places that look solid could actually be soft mud that could collapse under any weight.
What about cell service? There is little to no cell phone service in this rural area of Arizona, so making sure you had your game plan down before heading out there is crucial. Downloading offline maps, writing down printed directions, and fueling up before leaving I-40 was the play.
Grand Falls (Chocolate Falls)
📍 Indian Rte 70, Leupp, AZ 86035
Website: https://discovernavajo.com
